Hebron by night

So: you are thinking of visiting Hebron by night... and you might be wondering: whether it's a wise thing to do or not?  Whether there is actually anything to do at night in Hebron?

The answer to the first question is positive: yes, you can safely visit Hebron by night.  (Old Hebron, that is - the area right around the Cave of Patriarchs/Ibrahimi mosque).
As for the second question... well... Hebron is not exactly a party-oriented city.  Other cities in the region are much better when it comes to nightlife.  Tel Aviv or Ramallah both have fun restaurants and cafes to chill out and relax.  Hebron is definitely a lot more conservative.  So, forget about partying like crazy...

I can only think of  one reason to come to the city by night: its centerpiece.  Seeing the Cave of Patriarchs & Matriarchs /Ibrahimi mosque when its dark all around, is actually a pretty nice experience.
The 2 minarets of the Cave/Mosque are illuminated in green, like other islamic holy places in the area. 

The Synagogue/Mosque at night.

There might be very few visitors around; or even, just you.  But the site is guarded 24/7, so you are pretty much safe, as long as you stay in the main area. 

Entrance to the Cave itself is usually possible during part of the night.  For example, on a normal day, the synagogue is open from 4 AM until 9 PM in the winter.  (10 PM in the summer).   It is free of charge.

The easiest way to go to Hebron when it's already dark is to take the Egged bus 160 from the central bus station in West Jerusalem (tahana merkazit, in Hebrew).  
Get off at the first stop in Old Hebron: you will be very close to the Cave.  The drivers usually announce this stop, but let him know in advance that you are going there, and that you want to get off there. 

Buses run between Jerusalem and Hebron until about 11 PM.  However, there are no buses at all between Friday afternoons and Saturday nights, due to the jewish Shabbat.  Check the daily schedules on the Egged website: www.egged.co.il/Eng/ .  Also, you can ask at the information desk of the bus station in Jerusalem for the schedules: they will print them for you, for your round trip, and for the entire week. 



The Cave of Patriarchs & Matriarchs/ The Ibrahimi Mosque



This holy place is THE jewel of Hebron.  It is the main reason why Hebron has been, is, and will always be an important city, from a spiritual point of view.  The Cave/Mosque is the shared treasure of all Hebronites.  It is considered very important for both religious Muslims and religious Jews. 
Why?  Because Abraham (father of both people), his wife Sarah, their son Isaac, his wife Rivka, Isaac & Rivka's son Jacob and his wife Leah are buried there.

The Machpelah synagogue/ Ibrahimi mosque

As you go up the stairs, entrance to the synagogue will be to your left.

Entrance to the mosque is further to your left, down on the street level.

Entrance to the Cave itself is usually possible during the day and part of the night.  It is free of charge.

Please note that, for practical reasons, the building is divided into 2 distinct parts:
--- a mosque: the Ibrahimi mosque  (al haram al Ibrahimi) - named after Abraham, the father of both the Muslim and the Jewish people.  The mosque takes up about 80% of the building. 
--- a synagogue: the Cave of Patriarchs ( Ma'arat haMachpelah) - in honor of Abraham, Sarah, Isaac, Rivka, Jacob and Leah, fathers & mothers of the Jewish people.  The synagogue itself takes up about 20% of the building.

The cenotaph of Abraham,

father of the Jewish people and the Muslim people.

On a typical day, the mosque is open to Muslims and Christians.  The synagogue is open to Jews and Christians.  As a result, if, for example, you are a Christian tourist, you can visit the entire place.  You will probably be asked what your religion is as you approach the entrance of the holy site.  Do not be surprised, this is standard procedure. 

Girls and women visiting the Ibrahimi mosque will need to cover their hair.  It is best to plan ahead and bring your own hijab (headscarf); otherwise, you can borrow one at the entrance to the mosque. 

Hair-covering is not required for women in the synagogue, but men will be expected to wear a kipa (jewish head-covering for men); if you don't have your own, you can borrow one at the entrance. 

Please note that things do change during the major Muslim and Jewish holidays.  The entire building will be open to Muslims on the major Muslim holidays, and to them only.  The same is true for Jews during the major Jewish holidays. 

You can bring your camera: you are allowed to take pictures inside both the synagogue and the mosque.

Where to eat in Hebron

Coming up soon...

A post with advices on where to eat local tasty foods.  : )



Where to buy souvenirs/gifts in Hebron

Okay, fellow travellers and future Hebron visitors, here is a good news: Hebron is very affordable. Food, tee-shirts, scarfs, drinks, souvenirs... everything tends to be cheaper here than in Jerusalem.  This fact makes Hebron a good place to buy presents and souvenirs from your trip in the Middle East. 

So... where should you buy souvenirs and gifts?   

Well, you will have plenty of choice.  

Small shops owned by Arab families can be found both in old Hebron and new Hebron.  These shops are operated by the family's men, and selling all kinds of things (tee-shirts, magnets, scarfs, posters, etc).  It is likely that the owners, standing at the front of their store, will scream "hello!" to you, hoping that you'll stop and do business with them.  Usually, prices for the merchandise for sale will not be marked in these stores.  You have to ask for it.  If you're interested in buying something, do not accept the first price that the merchant will tell you.  Instead, negociate it down.  By doing so, you are not being offensive or stingy, you're just complying with a regional custom of haggling.
There is always room for negociating the price down.  And the merchant might actually be somewhat offended if you just accept his first price and pay it right away.  It can be fun, and many people who are not used to this custom will find it enjoyable.  

If, however, you do not feel comfortable playing the haggling game, there is a gift shop at a tourists' venue called the Gutnick Center.  The Gutnick Center is located at the foot of the Cave of Patriarchs.  Prices are marked there; no haggling is expected.  This store is small, and might not offer everything that you wish to bring home.  It has some nice items that are worth checking out, though.

Just like most other souvenir shops, the Gutnick Center's gift shop has hamsa amulets for sale- the hand-shaped symbol for good luck.  It is also called Hand of Fatima by Muslims, Hand of Mary by levantine Christians, and Hand of Myriam by Jews.

This Hamsa amulet was brought to Europe,

 straight from Hebron.

A hamsa is actually a good thing to bring home from Hebron.  Symbolically bringing luck and protection from this holy city to your own home... pretty nice, right?