Friday, September 14, 2012

How to dress in Hebron

First things first: Hebron is a traditional city.  Its people are conservative, and dress accordingly. 

----- Muslim Hebronites are considered to be among the most religious in the area.  Pretty much all Muslim women - married or not - wear at least the hijab ( the islamic headscarf worn over their hair, ears and neck).  Their clothes are typically ample and long, covering their arms and legs. 

----- Jewish Hebronites are also considered to be among the most religious in the area.  Women wear long skirts (usually, down to the ankle), and tops down to the elbow, with no clivage.  Married women wear a kissouy rosh - a jewish head covering.  Depending on how the woman fixes it, a bit of hair can be showing on the sides and/or at the top, but that's about it... 

Most men in Hebron grow beards.  All jewish men and boys (older than 3 years old) wear kippot (skullcaps).  They also dress in a conservative fashion: no shorts, sleeveless shirts, etc.

Please note than things are slighty different in Modern Hebron (Kyriat Arba).  About one third of the residents there are not religious.  That's why you'll see jewish women wearing pants there, married women without a hair covering, and men without a skullcap. 


Example of good clothes for a female tourist in Hebron. 
Pants and long skirts are both fine.



Now, what about you?  How should you dress? 

It is in your best interest to respect the residents who are welcoming you into their city.  Please, be sensitive to their habits and culture: dress modestly.  Long, unrevealing clothes are a perfect choice.  Tank tops and short skirts or shirts are NOT appropriate clothing for the Hebron area.  Such attire would likely offend some of the residents, and it could place you in an embarassing and unconfortable position. 

Last but not least: looking like a tourist is not a problem in Hebron.  In fact, it can even be an advantage, since tourists are welcome by both Muslim and Jewish Hebronites. 

Thursday, August 23, 2012

How to get to Hebron

So... you have made up your mind: you've decided to visit Hebron.  Kol hakavod!  Mabrouk!

If you're coming to Hebron from Jerusalem, using public transportation, there are 2 main options to travel between the 2 holy cities.  Which one I would recommend depends mainly on which part of Hebron you want to go to.

------- If you're heading to Old Hebron or Modern Hebron (Kiryat Arba), you can take a bus from the Egged company.  Buses to the Hebron area depart from the central bus station of West Jerusalem.  The bus station is called "tahana merkazit" in Hebrew.  It is easy to get to.  Several bus lines stop there, and the new tramway also stops right in front of its entrance.  Buses depart from the 3rd floor.  Hebron is served by the line 160, which departs from platform 7.   You can get all the schedules online, through the Egged website: www.egged.co.il/eng/  


Before you hop on the bus, do not hesitate to stop at the Egged information center (right next to platform 7- they can print the schedules for the entire week for you, free of charge. 
The trip lasts about an hour and costs less than 10 shekalim ( roughly 2 euros, 2.5 American dollars) one way, which you pay on the bus, directly to the driver. 
The bus will make several stops in Modern Hebron, and then go on to the Old City.  To visit the Tomb of Patriarchs & Matriarchs, get off at the first stop in Old Hebron. 
*** Please note that Egged currently does not service New Hebron.


Enjoy the ride! depending on the season, the land between
Jerusalem & Hebron
can be surprisingly green...

------- To go to New Hebron (or Old Hebron), you can start your journey at the central bus station of East Jerusalem.  Located right next to the Old City of Jerusalem (Damascus Gate), it is easy to get to.  Especially now, since the new tramway stops at Damascus Gate. 
Once you're at the station, ask for the bus 24, to Bethleem.  The bus will quickly fill up with other people, and depart once full.  The trip will cost you around 8 shekalim. 

Once in Bethleem, you'll need to go through an identity check, just like everyone else transiting through the city.  Make sure to keep your passport with you at all times.  No need to worry though, it usually goes smoothly and relatively fast.  Once you're done, you'll notice service taxis waiting for clients.  They will take you to the New City, for less than 10 shekalim.
*** If you want to go to the Old City from the New City, you can take a regular taxi.  Your taxi will not be able to drive inside the Old City, but it will drop you off at one of its entrances. 




Which option to choose?


Both options are good and enjoyable for the foreign traveller.  For mixed groups or couples, the second option is perfect.  However, women travelling by themselves (either alone or in a group) will probably find the Egged option easier and more confortable. 

Friday, August 10, 2012

Visiting the Holy Land? Check Hebron out!


If you are visiting the Middle East, don't miss out on one of its hidden gems: Hebron.  Hebron is one of the most ancient cities on earth; it has been continuously inhabited for thousands of years.  Many biblical stories took place in Hebron.  It is now the resting site of prominent biblical characters such as:
  •      Abraham & Sarah
  •      Isaac & Rivka
  •      Jacob & Leah
and also Ruth and Yishai, among others! 


As a result, the city is interesting for members of all monotheist faiths: Jews, Christians and Muslims. 
Today's Hebron population amounts to around 200,000.  Among them, close to 10,000 Jews and the remaining Arabs (Muslims for the overwhelming majority).  Hebron residents tend to be conservative and hospitable, friendly to tourists.


The Tomb of Patriarchs & Matriarchs in Old Hebron



For the purpose of this blog, I've divided the Hebron area into 3 different parts:

1.  Old Hebron: the heart of the city.  In this historic part of town, you will find the resting place of Abraham and Sarah! 

2.  New Hebron: a vibrant, bustling city with character and a strong Arabic flavor.

3.  Modern Hebron: the modern town of Kiryat Arba.  Adjacent to Hebron itself, it is home to a diverse community of 8000 Jews.

I'll go into more details about each of these 3 parts later on.  Based on my own experiences there, I'll use this blog to provide tips for the individual foreign visitors, including women travelling alone. 

Hebron is just 30 kilometers south of Jerusalem.  The trip between the two cities is reasonably fast and easy.  There are several options: all of them are affordable and safe (providing you use common sense and follow a few basic, easy-to-understand rules). 

I hope you'll enjoy this blog.  Hopefully, it will encourage you to go visit this unique city.

Yalla!  Kadima!  Let's go!

Next post (coming soon...): how to get to Hebron...