Hebron by night

So: you are thinking of visiting Hebron by night... and you might be wondering: whether it's a wise thing to do or not?  Whether there is actually anything to do at night in Hebron?

The answer to the first question is positive: yes, you can safely visit Hebron by night.  (Old Hebron, that is - the area right around the Cave of Patriarchs/Ibrahimi mosque).
As for the second question... well... Hebron is not exactly a party-oriented city.  Other cities in the region are much better when it comes to nightlife.  Tel Aviv or Ramallah both have fun restaurants and cafes to chill out and relax.  Hebron is definitely a lot more conservative.  So, forget about partying like crazy...

I can only think of  one reason to come to the city by night: its centerpiece.  Seeing the Cave of Patriarchs & Matriarchs /Ibrahimi mosque when its dark all around, is actually a pretty nice experience.
The 2 minarets of the Cave/Mosque are illuminated in green, like other islamic holy places in the area. 

The Synagogue/Mosque at night.

There might be very few visitors around; or even, just you.  But the site is guarded 24/7, so you are pretty much safe, as long as you stay in the main area. 

Entrance to the Cave itself is usually possible during part of the night.  For example, on a normal day, the synagogue is open from 4 AM until 9 PM in the winter.  (10 PM in the summer).   It is free of charge.

The easiest way to go to Hebron when it's already dark is to take the Egged bus 160 from the central bus station in West Jerusalem (tahana merkazit, in Hebrew).  
Get off at the first stop in Old Hebron: you will be very close to the Cave.  The drivers usually announce this stop, but let him know in advance that you are going there, and that you want to get off there. 

Buses run between Jerusalem and Hebron until about 11 PM.  However, there are no buses at all between Friday afternoons and Saturday nights, due to the jewish Shabbat.  Check the daily schedules on the Egged website: www.egged.co.il/Eng/ .  Also, you can ask at the information desk of the bus station in Jerusalem for the schedules: they will print them for you, for your round trip, and for the entire week. 



The Cave of Patriarchs & Matriarchs/ The Ibrahimi Mosque



This holy place is THE jewel of Hebron.  It is the main reason why Hebron has been, is, and will always be an important city, from a spiritual point of view.  The Cave/Mosque is the shared treasure of all Hebronites.  It is considered very important for both religious Muslims and religious Jews. 
Why?  Because Abraham (father of both people), his wife Sarah, their son Isaac, his wife Rivka, Isaac & Rivka's son Jacob and his wife Leah are buried there.

The Machpelah synagogue/ Ibrahimi mosque

As you go up the stairs, entrance to the synagogue will be to your left.

Entrance to the mosque is further to your left, down on the street level.

Entrance to the Cave itself is usually possible during the day and part of the night.  It is free of charge.

Please note that, for practical reasons, the building is divided into 2 distinct parts:
--- a mosque: the Ibrahimi mosque  (al haram al Ibrahimi) - named after Abraham, the father of both the Muslim and the Jewish people.  The mosque takes up about 80% of the building. 
--- a synagogue: the Cave of Patriarchs ( Ma'arat haMachpelah) - in honor of Abraham, Sarah, Isaac, Rivka, Jacob and Leah, fathers & mothers of the Jewish people.  The synagogue itself takes up about 20% of the building.

The cenotaph of Abraham,

father of the Jewish people and the Muslim people.

On a typical day, the mosque is open to Muslims and Christians.  The synagogue is open to Jews and Christians.  As a result, if, for example, you are a Christian tourist, you can visit the entire place.  You will probably be asked what your religion is as you approach the entrance of the holy site.  Do not be surprised, this is standard procedure. 

Girls and women visiting the Ibrahimi mosque will need to cover their hair.  It is best to plan ahead and bring your own hijab (headscarf); otherwise, you can borrow one at the entrance to the mosque. 

Hair-covering is not required for women in the synagogue, but men will be expected to wear a kipa (jewish head-covering for men); if you don't have your own, you can borrow one at the entrance. 

Please note that things do change during the major Muslim and Jewish holidays.  The entire building will be open to Muslims on the major Muslim holidays, and to them only.  The same is true for Jews during the major Jewish holidays. 

You can bring your camera: you are allowed to take pictures inside both the synagogue and the mosque.

Where to eat in Hebron

Coming up soon...

A post with advices on where to eat local tasty foods.  : )



Where to buy souvenirs/gifts in Hebron

Okay, fellow travellers and future Hebron visitors, here is a good news: Hebron is very affordable. Food, tee-shirts, scarfs, drinks, souvenirs... everything tends to be cheaper here than in Jerusalem.  This fact makes Hebron a good place to buy presents and souvenirs from your trip in the Middle East. 

So... where should you buy souvenirs and gifts?   

Well, you will have plenty of choice.  

Small shops owned by Arab families can be found both in old Hebron and new Hebron.  These shops are operated by the family's men, and selling all kinds of things (tee-shirts, magnets, scarfs, posters, etc).  It is likely that the owners, standing at the front of their store, will scream "hello!" to you, hoping that you'll stop and do business with them.  Usually, prices for the merchandise for sale will not be marked in these stores.  You have to ask for it.  If you're interested in buying something, do not accept the first price that the merchant will tell you.  Instead, negociate it down.  By doing so, you are not being offensive or stingy, you're just complying with a regional custom of haggling.
There is always room for negociating the price down.  And the merchant might actually be somewhat offended if you just accept his first price and pay it right away.  It can be fun, and many people who are not used to this custom will find it enjoyable.  

If, however, you do not feel comfortable playing the haggling game, there is a gift shop at a tourists' venue called the Gutnick Center.  The Gutnick Center is located at the foot of the Cave of Patriarchs.  Prices are marked there; no haggling is expected.  This store is small, and might not offer everything that you wish to bring home.  It has some nice items that are worth checking out, though.

Just like most other souvenir shops, the Gutnick Center's gift shop has hamsa amulets for sale- the hand-shaped symbol for good luck.  It is also called Hand of Fatima by Muslims, Hand of Mary by levantine Christians, and Hand of Myriam by Jews.

This Hamsa amulet was brought to Europe,

 straight from Hebron.

A hamsa is actually a good thing to bring home from Hebron.  Symbolically bringing luck and protection from this holy city to your own home... pretty nice, right?

How to dress in Hebron

First things first: Hebron is a traditional city.  Its people are conservative, and dress accordingly. 

----- Muslim Hebronites are considered to be among the most religious in the area.  Pretty much all Muslim women - married or not - wear at least the hijab ( the islamic headscarf worn over their hair, ears and neck).  Their clothes are typically ample and long, covering their arms and legs. 

----- Jewish Hebronites are also considered to be among the most religious in the area.  Women wear long skirts (usually, down to the ankle), and tops down to the elbow, with no clivage.  Married women wear a kissouy rosh - a jewish head covering.  Depending on how the woman fixes it, a bit of hair can be showing on the sides and/or at the top, but that's about it... 

Most men in Hebron grow beards.  All jewish men and boys (older than 3 years old) wear kippot (skullcaps).  They also dress in a conservative fashion: no shorts, sleeveless shirts, etc.

Please note than things are slighty different in Modern Hebron (Kyriat Arba).  About one third of the residents there are not religious.  That's why you'll see jewish women wearing pants there, married women without a hair covering, and men without a skullcap. 

Example of good clothes for a female tourist in Hebron. 

Pants and long skirts are both fine.

Now, what about you?  How should you dress? 

It is in your best interest to respect the residents who are welcoming you into their city.  Please, be sensitive to their habits and culture: dress modestly.  Long, unrevealing clothes are a perfect choice.  Tank tops and short skirts or shirts are NOT appropriate clothing for the Hebron area.  Such attire would likely offend some of the residents, and it could place you in an embarassing and unconfortable position. 

Last but not least: looking like a tourist is not a problem in Hebron.  In fact, it can even be an advantage, since tourists are welcome by both Muslim and Jewish Hebronites. 

How to get to Hebron

So... you have made up your mind: you've decided to visit Hebron.  Kol hakavod!  Mabrouk!

If you're coming to Hebron from Jerusalem, using public transportation, there are 2 main options to travel between the 2 holy cities.  Which one I would recommend depends mainly on which part of Hebron you want to go to.

------- If you're heading to Old Hebron or Modern Hebron (Kiryat Arba), you can take a bus from the Egged company.  Buses to the Hebron area depart from the central bus station of West Jerusalem.  The bus station is called "tahana merkazit" in Hebrew.  It is easy to get to.  Several bus lines stop there, and the new tramway also stops right in front of its entrance.  Buses depart from the 3rd floor.  Hebron is served by the line 160, which departs from platform 7.   You can get all the schedules online, through the Egged website: www.egged.co.il/eng/  

Before you hop on the bus, do not hesitate to stop at the Egged information center (right next to platform 7- they can print the schedules for the entire week for you, free of charge. 

The trip lasts about an hour and costs less than 10 shekalim ( roughly 2 euros, 2.5 American dollars) one way, which you pay on the bus, directly to the driver. 
The bus will make several stops in Modern Hebron, and then go on to the Old City.  To visit the Tomb of Patriarchs & Matriarchs, get off at the first stop in Old Hebron. 
*** Please note that Egged currently does not service New Hebron.

Enjoy the ride! depending on the season, the land between

Jerusalem & Hebron

can be surprisingly green...

------- To go to New Hebron (or Old Hebron), you can start your journey at the central bus station of East Jerusalem.  Located right next to the Old City of Jerusalem (Damascus Gate), it is easy to get to.  Especially now, since the new tramway stops at Damascus Gate. 
Once you're at the station, ask for the bus 24, to Bethleem.  The bus will quickly fill up with other people, and depart once full.  The trip will cost you around 8 shekalim. 

Once in Bethleem, you'll need to go through an identity check, just like everyone else transiting through the city.  Make sure to keep your passport with you at all times.  No need to worry though, it usually goes smoothly and relatively fast.  Once you're done, you'll notice service taxis waiting for clients.  They will take you to the New City, for less than 10 shekalim.
*** If you want to go to the Old City from the New City, you can take a regular taxi.  Your taxi will not be able to drive inside the Old City, but it will drop you off at one of its entrances. 

Which option to choose?


Both options are good and enjoyable for the foreign traveller.  For mixed groups or couples, the second option is perfect.  However, women travelling by themselves (either alone or in a group) will probably find the Egged option easier and more confortable. 

Visiting the Holy Land? Check Hebron out!

If you are visiting the Middle East, don't miss out on one of its hidden gems: Hebron.  Hebron is one of the most ancient cities on earth; it has been continuously inhabited for thousands of years.  Many biblical stories took place in Hebron.  It is now the resting site of prominent biblical characters such as:

•      Abraham & Sarah
•      Isaac & Rivka
•      Jacob & Leah

and also Ruth and Yishai, among others! 

As a result, the city is interesting for members of all monotheist faiths: Jews, Christians and Muslims. 

Today's Hebron population amounts to around 200,000.  Among them, close to 10,000 Jews and the remaining Arabs (Muslims for the overwhelming majority).  Hebron residents tend to be conservative and hospitable, friendly to tourists.

The Tomb of Patriarchs & Matriarchs in Old Hebron

For the purpose of this blog, I've divided the Hebron area into 3 different parts:

1.  Old Hebron: the heart of the city.  In this historic part of town, you will find the resting place of Abraham and Sarah! 

2.  New Hebron: a vibrant, bustling city with character and a strong Arabic flavor.

3.  Modern Hebron: the modern town of Kiryat Arba.  Adjacent to Hebron itself, it is home to a diverse community of 8000 Jews.

I'll go into more details about each of these 3 parts later on.  Based on my own experiences there, I'll use this blog to provide tips for the individual foreign visitors, including women travelling alone. 

Hebron is just 30 kilometers south of Jerusalem.  The trip between the two cities is reasonably fast and easy.  There are several options: all of them are affordable and safe (providing you use common sense and follow a few basic, easy-to-understand rules). 

I hope you'll enjoy this blog.  Hopefully, it will encourage you to go visit this unique city.

Yalla!  Kadima!  Let's go!

Next post (coming soon...): how to get to Hebron...